A variation on a colourful Provençal favourite, this hearty salad is just perfect for an early summer lunch, making the most of baby new potatoes and asparagus at the peak of their season.
*The hot smoked trout can be replaced by smoked mackerel fillets, or fillets from 6 grilled fresh sardines. Canned tuna or salmon, about a 200g drained can, would also be good. *Quail's eggs make a pretty alternative if they're available – use 4 quail's eggs to replace the 2 hen's eggs and boil for 2–3 minutes. Cut in half.